Ponta Delgada to Horta

Ponta Delgada to Horta, 155 NM

The time finally came to set off for our next destination, Horta on the island of Faial. Horta is 155 nm west of Punta Delgada, about 31 hours sail. The weather had been quite windy from the south for days and waves/swell pretty heavy when we departed. Luckily there was a little wind from the SSW, enough to steady up the boat with our mainsail up. We motorsailed untill we reached the entrance to the Sao Jorge channel - the stretch of water between the islands of Sao Jorge and Pico. We motored all the way into Horta arriving there just after 7PM.

Alongside in Horta, checking in.

Checked in at the marina and they gave us a berth at the pontoons. Our plan is to stay here approximately 2 weeks. The next day we just had to go visit Peters Cafe Sport, which is a legendary waterhole amongst the sailing community. 

 

Here we met Duarte, who we knew from our last visit in Horta. He and his friend used to bring us water and groceries and sometimes take-away - when we were anchored here in 2020. At the time we were not allowed ashore because of COVID-19. Duarte remebered us/boat.. he said: Oh yes you who bought all that water ! Hehe... he was right, we bouth 15 x 8 liters of drinking water. That water lasted us long into our second trip. I think we emptied the last container in January this year. 

We hired a car and went on a day trip to see the island.  A great day with lots to be seen.

  We also finally met up with our friend Lars Hedman who arrived with his boat from the Carribean. We tried to meet him in November in Las Palmas, but we got there too late, as Geir was down with a bad cold, we later think it could have been Covid. As there were no space in the marina, they were told to anchor on arrival. Lasse had no dinghy and Geir went over and picked up Lasse and took him ashore for his check-in. They were glad to having arrived as the past few days had been very rough. We shared a few beers and compared notes. It was very nice to finally meet Lasse again. 

 A couple of days later we were invited by Lasse for a dinner at the Atletico restaurant and enjoyed a great meal with Lasse and his crew. They were leaving the next morning for Lagos in Portugal and we for Ireland. We hope to meet him again somewhere :)

Azores. Visiting Santa Maria, Sao Miguel

From Madeira to Santa Maria

Our trip from Calheta/Madeira to Santa Maria was rather uneventfull. We had some good sailing winds the first 24 hours. The wind slacked off for the next 48 hours and we motored to keep up speed. The last day the wind picked up and we had a great sail into the harbour in the town of Vila do Porto located on the SW side of the island. We were called by a french boat who needed assistance as their engine wouldn't start. We managed to get help via the bar in the Sailclub and they were towed in the last few 100 meters. We had some cold beers at the sailclub later on an thanked them for helping. 

Sail Club at Vila Do Porto

 

There was a great car rental on the island. We hired a nice Citroen C3 for one day paying just 27 Euro all inclusive (minus petrol). 

Our rental car.

 We had a great trip around the island. The island is very green and there were many pictoresque small vallies and comunities with old houses/farmhouses. Many of them abandoned, years ago. 

 

Overlooking the harbour/marina was a small fort dating back a few hundred years. The island had been attacked by pirates multiple times since they were populated and the locals had endured a lot of misery. 

The old fort overlooking the marina

  Today it is a very modern community. Modern shops, roads narrow but in good order and they also have a great airport with dayli flights to the other islands in the Azores. They also have flight to Lisboa. 

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Lighthouse in the southeast of Santa Maria

 After 4 days - it was time to push on to our next destination - Ponta Delgada on the island of Sao Miguel. We left first thing in the morning accompanied by 3 other boats. 2 French and one German. The voyage was just 55 nm and we arrived just before 7PM the same day. We moored in what they still call the new marina. (built 13 years ago). The marina is at the city center. But it is quite open to winds and sea/swell from the south. We had a few very rough days where the boat really bounced around in the berth. We also used the oprtunity to take a couple of days of luxury, threating ourselves to 2 nights at a hotel. We always try to get a room with a bath tub. Grete find a soothing warm bath heavenly for her troubled back. We were recommended a good local restaurant by some Norwegians we met in the marina. Not a big succsess. The sacond nite we went to a better one next to our hotel and had a 3 couse meal. Very nice. We wanted to visit a botanic garden we found on GoogleMaps. When we entered we were briskly stopped by a plain security guard who informed us you needed a permit to enter and we were given a map of where we could go. We had to strictly follow the track on the map. Turns out this was a garden surrounding the presidency of the Azores - and not the botanic garden we had ment to visit. So much for using GoogleMaps ;) 

 While in Ponta Delgada Geir received a Distress call on the shortwave radio. It came from a Hong Kong registred bulk carrier and who had lost a man overboard. It turned out they had sent  the wrong position in their call. They had written 88 degrees EAST - which we found was inland in Bangla Desh.

This was the distress call.

Here is the vessel.

 Checking the vesseles MMSI number showed the correct position to be 100 miles south of New Orleans. We phoned the US Coastguard who again phoned the vessel by satphone. They confirmed the distress situation. We later learned the man had been found by coastguard helicopter and rescued.

Santa Cruz, Madeira to Quinta Do Lorde, Madeira

Our stay in Santa Cruz was pleasant but a bit boring. Grete was troubled with severe pain in her back and was not up to any activity that involved sitting or walking for any length of time. We did however manage to visit a few of the local restaurants in town. 

 

This place had great hamburgers all had Band names.

While in Santa cruz, Geir had a radio contact with a few local stations on Tenerife. One morning Luciano, EA8AM came to see us on the boat, bringing his QSL card and a nice bottle of Tenerife white wine. (I have sinece had many contacts with Luciano) He follows us on marinetraffic.com.

EA8AM, Luciano (left)

We used the oportunity to do work around the boat. Finally painted the deck which tuned out very nice. Colour a bit whiter/brighter than the gelcoat - but much better than what it was after we stripped off the worn out teak. Under the teak we found the original deck with anti skid pattern, so we only had to paint. Also did all our laundry. Bought some new fender covers. Some were in 5m lengths and Grete made pockets for tie-laces in both ends. Fenders looked good now ;)

 

Grete did a good job on the fender covers.

 We departed Santa Cruz, filling up diesel tank on the way on Thursday 7th April. We had booked a berth in the marina at Quinta do Lorde located at the far east of the island. We arrived at noon the 11th April and were welcomed by the marineros who help us tie up. It's a pretty deserted place which is a pitty. It was built some years ago as a holiday resort but it went bankrupt early. There are lot of nice buildings and a nice area around the marina. When we were here in October 2021 the restaurant was open. Now it was closed. There is a small shop selling wine, beer and basic groceries. The marina fcilities are good. Nice clean toilets and showers, a laundry and free WiFi with good coverage. We very soon was reminded of the marina lying just below the eastern approach to Christiano Rolando airport. But the last flight passes before midnight, so we get to sleep OK. A bit windy the first days, but the marina is well sheltered. Having good WiFi enabled Geir to be on the air with his radio back home, working /REMOTE via Internet. 

 

Quinta Do Lorde marina/hotel complex

 We also met the swedish family on S/Y Josephine - we saw in Santa Cruz. Their plan was like us, to sail back home via Azores. We talked about the weater outlooks and the time needed to sail up to the first island Santa Maria. It will take us just about 4 days with an average speed of 5 knots. Today we had a good look on the forecast and unfortunately it looks like we must depart Madeira tomorrow, wednesday 13th in order to be in Santa Maria Sunday 17th at noon. The wind will increase Sunday evening. So it looks like we will have lots of time to explore the Azores, but less time here at Madeira. We can always come back here as tourists by air. Our plan tomorrow is to depart at 0800, sail to the port of Calehta at SW Madeira, fill our diesel tank and continue towards Santa Maria in the Azores.

 

Topping up on diesel at Calheta

 

Leaving Puerto Mogan for La Gomera & Tenerife

 Finally - the day arrived - departure from Puerto Mogan.
Our depature was delayed almost one week as we were waiting for our new mainsail to be delivered.

Bye bye to Puerto Mogan

We left P.Mogan at 0930 the 7th March and had a nice sail accross to an anchorage at Los Christianos
on the south coast of Tenerife. We arrived in the dark around 8PM and anchored in 8m depth.

Sun setting as we approach the anchorage at Los Christianos.

 

Did'nt sleep to good during the night, was a bit worried as we were anchored near a shallow.

But we remained in position safely. 

The next morning we set off for the island of La Gomera. Our destination was the marina at the main town of San Sebastian.
We had a nice trip accross, most of it by motoring as the area between the islands is mostly sheltered from wind by the high Tenerife mountains. 

 

Bye bye Los Christianos

On our way to La Gomeara

San Sebastian harbour

"Norske" Boadecia (Fred Olsen)

Moored in La Gomera Marina.

We arrived at 4PM and were greeted and directed to our berth by the local marineros in their dinghy.
The Marina is right in the town centre and the facilities good, but the WiFi was out of action.

The first day we went for a few walks in town, did some small shopping and had a nice pizza and
cold beers.

 

Out for a cold beer at a seaside bar.

The next day we hired a car and went for a drive on the island. We took a route recommended by the
tourist office, which took us up to the national park which is a unique rainforrest, protected by the World Herritage Fund.
We stopped at the visitors centre at La Laguna Grande. This is a very nice pick-nick/leisure area. 

There's a nice restaurant there where we had lunch.
From there we returned to San Sebastian on the main road stopping at several view points to
enjoy many spectacular mountains and gorges. We finnished the last day with a nice meal at
a restaurant at the marina. 

Hermigua, famous for growing bananas

Santa Catarina beach in Hermigua. Teide on Tenerife in the background.

Pylons used to hoist bananas to small boats who transfered them to vessels at anchor.

 

Lots of work has been done to create land to grow fruit/vegs.

Lots of spectacular view points.

Mirador Los Roques

My sweet admiral  ;)

Our rental car and the co-pilot :)

Los Roques

We departed San Sebastian the 11th March for Tenerife. 

 

The forecast for the coming week is for strong northerly wind. We have made reservation for a berth in Santa Cruz. We had originally intended to anchor the first night underway in Los Christianos, but as we arrived there early in the afternoon and weather was reasonably OK, we decided to push on to Santa Cruz.

We had some headwind slowing us down at the start but as we were able to alter course a bit and managed to get wind into the main sail and speed went from 2-3 to 5 to 6 knots.
We arrived at the marina in Santa Cruz at 10PM in the dark. But having been here before made thing much easier. Marineros was there at the pontoon with a good flashlight leading our way.

Tired but happy captain arrived at Santa Cruz.

So we are ready to explore Santa Cruz and maybe a drive around the island.

Las Palmas to Puerto Mogan

 We have had some relaxed days in Las Palmas.  Frequented Sailors Bay for cold beers and snacks. Bought deck paint and a few Christmas presents. But as mixing with too much people is risky business, we try to keep to ourselves as much as possible. 

Las Palmas to Puerto Mogan

 

We departed LP in the morning on the 30th November to sail south to Amfi Del Mar, where we plan to anchor for one night. We had great wind from the NE that veered to East as we got further south and at times we did 8+ knots SOG. Then as we passed Maspalomas the wind dropped as at a flick of a switch.

From fresh breeze to no wind in less than a minute.

 

We motored the last we miles to the anchorage right in front of the Radisson Hotel in Alfas Del Pi. The anchorage had very good holding and there were very little swell or waves. We will definitely come back to this place later on. 

 

 

Breakfast at anchor in Amfi Del mar

 Our main sail is becoming more of a problem. Looks like it’s pretty worn out and has lost it’s shape. We have done many repairs and we just discovered another tear in one of the seems.  We will have to decide what to do during our 3 months stay in Puerto Mogán.

December 1st we motored the remaining 5 nm up to Puerto Mogán where we will spend 3 months at the marina. 

 

Marina at Puerto Mogan

The place is mainly a tourist town built around the small beach and the next door marina. The marina is quite small, but well sheltered from wind, waves and swell. 

Puerto Mogan is a very cozy and scienic village.

 There are many small restaurants and shops all along the marina. But even so it gets quiet by 10 or 11PM.  There are boats with live-aboard s from many nations.

 

Our closest neighbour has XMAS decorations in place.

We will be wintering here in Puerto Mogan untill 1st of March. We then plan to visit other islands here in the Canaries and continue north to Madeira, then the Azores islands in April.

Fuerteventura to Las Palmas

Geir managed to get a bad cold while in Gran Tarajal. 

Our sail to Las Palmas therefore got postponed a few days. 

The past week things was pretty dramatic at times here. Just accross from our berth the local coastguard has their station. They have been out 3 times this week resquing migrants coming over on overloaded boats from Morocco. The weather has been nice with calm winds and thats when the migrants come. 

 

Migrants at the Red Cross station

When they arrive they are met by Red Cross on the quay for registration and heslth checks.  They get bussed off to camps where their requests for assylum will be processed.

Most of them are sent to Spanish mainland or returned to their homeland.

We finally got underway to Las Palmas. We departed from Gran Tarajal late friday (19.11) and sailed over night the 78 NM to Las Palmas. We arrived saturday at sunrise. 

We anchored just north of the marina. We were promissed a berth in the marina from monday - as by then the fleet of 150+ sailboats taking part of the ARC race had departed.  At one point wind picked up and we and a few other boats dragged the anchor. We did a couple of new anchoring attempts in a less  exposed part of the anchorage and found good holding. We slept peacefully the next two nights. 

 

Alcaravaneras - anchorage, Las Palmas

No - that’s not Santa

 

Monday morning Geir went into the marina office where a long queue already had developed.

After 45 minutes we had received a berth and paid to stay for the next 8 days.

Back out to the boat, dinghy & motor up on deck and we sailed into our berth.

We will stay here the next days and sail straight from here to our "winter-berth" in Puerto Mogan.

Our berth is located right by Sailors bar, toiletts/showers and a coin laundrette.

So were finally couldhave all our clothes washed. 

 

 

We have had visits from our friend Per - LA7FAA - who is visiting Las Palmas to survey a boat 

he is interrested in buying. It looks like the deal might come through for him, but he says there is lots of "Red tape" when buying a boat with a Spanish flag.

Great meeting Per, LA7FAA, here at Sailors Bar

Have had a few radio skeds up to Norway around 0930Z on 18.141. Very variable conditions.

While we are in the marina even worse conditions.

Lanzarote to Furteventura

 After 7 days in Marina Rubicon we filled up water and diesel tanks left the the 8. November.
We motored just a short distance over to Playa Papagayo where we anchored for a few days.

Playa Papagayo

After a week at anchor we set sail southwards to the "capital" of the island of Fuerteventura,
Puerto Del Rosario. We had tried to book a berth in the marina by email and phone, but had no response at all. When we arrived we were welcomed by the harbour police and they offered us several vacant berths in the marina.

Approach Puert Del Rosario

Well moored in the marina

 We spent 2 days in the marina and did some shopping and filled up our water tanks.

The port was nice and resonably quiet, being in the town center. We paid 20 Euros a night
for the berth incl water and electricity. There was no WiFi and no showers.
But we are lucky to have a boat with a good shower both indoor and at the bathing platform on the stern. As we left Rosiario we passed this nice sailing cruise vessel.

Sailing cruice vessel

Departing Puerto Del Rosario

From Rosario we sailed 4 hours sothwards to the town of Gran Tarajal where we anchored the first night. The anchorage turned out to be pretty rolly and we didn't get much sleep through the night.
So the next day we went into the harbour marina. Again we were offered several berths and we found one well sheltered and a place very quiet, we slept like loggs the next nights.

Gran Tarajal anchorage

Gran Tarajal marina

 

The rates here at Gran Tarajal is very low. 13 Euros a night for our 12m long boat. And thats incl.
water and electricity. There are toilets and showers here, but no WiFi. But 4G signal is good.
Our intention was to sail onwards to the next port of Morro Jable, but again we have had no response
when trying to book a berth. So we decided to remain here until monday afternoon.

The plan is then to depart for Las Palmas. It's a 15 hour sail.
We have to anchor there, as the marina will be open only for the boats participating in the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers).
We are stopping there to meet our friend Lars Hedman who is there with his boat Sandvita.