19/03/2020

Latest - good news !

For those of you that understand Norwegian and those who were able to get a transation I have good news.
Our satellite phone rang here and a pleasant lady from the Norwegian embassy was at the other end.
They had been in touch with Grenada and we are welcome to come and stay there. So with high spirits we are now
sailing past Trinidad and up to Grenada. We should arrive in the early hours on saturday.

While charging batteries yesterday the engine over-heated. Checked the obviois reasons and found the impeller
in the seawater pump totally worn out. We had 3 new ones in spare. All was well after it was replaced.
Working in a crampt engine compartment on a rolling boat is a real test on ones patience.
But the job was done satisfatory and didn't drop a single par/screw.

Weather has been perfect with a steady 15 knot ENE wind. Untill early this morning when it suddenly increased to 20-25.
All (both) hands on deck and reefs in both genoa and main sails were made.
We sailed with good speed and during the morning it calmed down to 15-18 knots.

Today we had Gretes home- (boat) made tuna salad on rye bread. Really nice.
Grete also made a very nice pot of baccalao. We purchased fish and other ingredients in Joao Pessoa, Brazil.
So we are not starving.

We now have 125 nautical miles left to Grenada. We very much look forward to a good berth at the marina
and to have a long needed shower and to get some long hours of sleep in a bed that doesn't move :)

17/03/2020

Corona virus - komplikasjoner

This one will be in Norwegian - try google translate:

Dette ble litt mer utfordrende enn vi hadde forestilt oss.
Det er vel få seilere som tidligere har måttet stå overfor konsekvensene av corona virus trusselen.

Land etter land stenger nå grensene, transport av mennesker og varer opphører.
Vi er på vei nordover mot Trinidad & Tobago der vi har avtale med et verft som skal reparere toalettet,
sjekke kjøla og vi har også en rift i storseilet som må ordnes.

I går fikk vi melding om at statsministeren i T&T har vedtatt at grensene stenges fra midnatt 17.03 og at
båter som ankommer vil bli avvist. Vi fikk beskjed om å ikke komme til T&T og enten bli der vi er - eller finne en alternativ havn.
Problemet er at vi er midt ute på havet og alternative havner er allerede virus smittet eller veldig utrygge. Vi har derfor valgt å fortsette
forbi Trinidad og håper å nå St.Georges på Grenada - før også de evt. bestemmer seg for å stenge grensene.
Vi har noe drikkevann, en del ferskvann vi kan rense - men heldigvis mye mat. Men relativt lite diesel.
Vinden er imidlertid på vår side og har til nå gitt oss god bør på mellom 6 til 7 knop.

Får vi fortsatt god vind vil vi være fremme på Grenada lørdag den 21.03.
Hvordan vi legger opp turen videre mot Antigua og så Azorene - må vi bestemme oss for da.

15/03/2020

A secret to share with you ;)

When we left Jacare/Cabadelo in Brasil - our intention was to sail along the coast of Brasil up to French Guyana to visit Kourou and the Iles du Salut - where the French built a large prison complex in the 18th century.

Officially we never went there - but we really did. We skipped visiting Kourou though.
We were afraid we could get into trouble or being refused access to ports if we had been registered
as visitors in French Guyana (COVID-19 fright). 

We arrived there in the dark early in the morning, 13th March and anchored in a bay off the main island named Ile du Royale.
We met one of the officials after we got ashore he welcomed us and said they didn't bother doing check-ins for boats visiting for a day or two.  The island is where the main prison was and where the islands/prison administration was located. There are 3 islands and the other two was Isle St. Joseph and Ile du Diable.


Prior to arriving we had both read the book Papillon, by Henri Charriere. He was prisoned there for many years. Did several escapes, got caught - but finally managed to escape and found refuge in Venezuela.

One of the buildings there was now converted to a restaurant and a hotel. Many of the former houses for guards/families was part of the hotel. The restaurant had some nice cold beers.
The beer tasted fantastic especially after a long walk around the island.


Walking around the prison camp we saw and recognised all the places Henri Charriere had written about.

This is the prison directors residence.

The church

The hospital

View from top of the island

Prison cells
The bay where we anchored

There were many of these on the island.

Og  hvilket dyr er dette ?
What this animal called ?


Harbour


Ile de Diable

Prisoners quarters

12/03/2020

Jacare to Trinidad - update

Our stay in Jacare was a very hot one. Even our fridge hated the place and decided to stop working. The marina got hold of a technician who turned out to be a very friendly guy - and he was at home on shore leave from his job on an offshore multi -purpose vessel (oil related). So we had a long chat on working conditions in Brazil's oilfields. The pay was getting worse every year - and Joelson (as his name was) was considering giving up his job, as working full time as a service engineer as this was more rewarding than what he made on his 28 days offshore.
He managed to get the fridge started - by checking for freon content and leaks. He replaced the old freon with new and replaced the thermostat.

We decided to have a nights vaccation from the boat. A night at a hotel with aircondition and a great meal was what we had in mind. We found a hotel online - booked the room and off we went with the local taxi driver Bernardo.
The food and the stay was very nice. We had a room on the top floor of a beach side hotel in a large beach just outside Joao Pessoa.

Our trip to Ubatuba unfortunatly had to be cancelled. We could not check in with the immigration untill after the carnival. And we could not travell without beeing checked in. As our time schedule is very tight we had to make this sad decission.

Nicola from the marina picked us up at the hotel the next day - and we went to immigration where we were checked in and out - as we were departing 2 days later.

Sunday morning 1. march we left at high tide.
The day before had been spent at a big Carrefour supermarket - where last provissions was purchased.
Our taxi driver Bernardo was very helpfull insisted on
carriyng all to the boat and even to lift it onboard.

Our trip started well with ample sailing wind which gave us good speed. Our destination was Iles du Salut (Saviours Islands) off the coast of French Guyana. Most people may have read the book or seen the movie Papilon. The island is the site of an old french prison for high security prisoners.
It was in operation from 1880 to late 1950's.
Now it's a museum and open to the public who find their way to the islands.
The trip up here has been very hot and at times tiresome. After the first 1-2 days with sailing wind - we were becalmed and ran the engine every day to help progress. Luckily we had 355 liters of diesel when we left. We have stopped a few times to have a swim, which was very nice - but water temperature is almost 30C. After we had a short rinse with fresh water on the out door shower.
Radio system has worked fine. We have been able to send and receive emails via the Winlink system and hopefully you have been able to follow our position changes that has been added daily.
The sad thing is that there has been no long range conditions that has allowed us to talk to HAM radio friends in Norway.

We have had contact with other boats sailing the same route as us - and been able to share information on weather and choice of route.

We are now on day 11 out of Jacare, it's wednesday and we will arrive the islands early friday morning.
Our plan is to stay at anchor there until sunday and then motor into the nearest town, Kourou to fill up with diesel and fresh water. We also need to buy bottled water, some fresh bread and green stuff.

From Kourou we will sail to Trinidad where we need to have some job done on the boat. Our toilet is blocked again and the manual pump broken.

The fridge - gave up on us, 2 days out of Jacare,
but we managed to get it going and it keep a temp of 9-10 degrees, We have sent an email to try get a portable backup fridge to keep our drinking water atc. Opening the main fridge several times a day doesn't help keeping the temperature low.

The voyage up to Trinidad is 6 days to arrive at the 23rd of March. We hope to get the jobs done within a few days. After Trinidad we wil start our voyage up the Carribean islands. More on that later Today we had confirmation from the yard in Chageuramas to be hauled out 24. and back out the 29th. march.

Latest news on Corona virus worries us. Not the virus itself, but the consequences in trade and available provisions as we go along. Luckily we are very well stocked - but need more drinking water and diesel. We'll just have to see how this thing pans out.


Grete & Geir

23/02/2020

Fernando Noronha to NE Brazil

We arrived the island of Fernando Noronha the 18th February and anchored in calm weather
in the morning. The island looks very pretty and we made our way ashore with the dinghy.
Check-in was easy - but took it's time as we had to visit 3 authorities.
But the local sheriff took us in his car and after 2 hours we were ready and cleared in and could go get some ice cold beers.

We met Marcus - a very friendly young German traveller who offered the use of his hot-spot phone
to Grete, as she was very eager to see pictures of our new grandson. We received lots of them as well as video's and had a longer chat with them using Messenger.

Visiting Fernando Noronha is expensive. For the 3 days we had planned we had to pay almost 1000 reais (Brazil money)

After our beer hot-spot session it was time to return to the boat, as it gets dark very early here.
A short while after we arrived onboard, the weather changed dramatically.
First wind increased then heavy rain and more wind. It kept on like this for 2 hours and seas and swell got higher. Bot rolled pretty hard at times, but the anchor held fine.

The next day we still rolled to much and there was too much waves to go ashore with the dinghy.
The 3rd day arrived with little change - and we had to face the fact that a few ours visit to the island had cost a lot of money. At 1530 - we lifted anchor and set sail for our next port of call
the marina at Jacare up-river from the town of Cabadelo in NE Brazil.

We had to motor-sail most of the time - in order to stay above 5 knots, which would get us to
the marina at HW which was at 1600 local time the 22nd of February.
We had limited amount of diesel left, but running the engine at minimum RPM's we managed to get there before the tank was empty.

Jacare Village Marina looks like a well organized place. It has all the facilities including a bar
and kitchen that serves great food.

The marina helped us get in touch with a technician to fix our cooling-box. It had gradually gotten warmer - and at the end had an internal temperature of 22C. It's now running as  should keeping all our drinks nice and cold.

Safely moored in Jacare

Marina bar and leisure area
Bringing the laudry ashore

13/02/2020

Sailing the Atlantic

Hello

Time passes fast out here. We are already nearly 800 nm SSW of Mindelo, Cape Verde
that we left one week ago. We are heading for the island Fernando Noronha located NE of the NE coast of Brazil. We hope to get permit to go ashore, as one normally need to have a visa in advance. It is supposed to be one for the foremost attractions in Brazil and a well protected natures reserve.

The weather is fine. A ENE wind 15 knots is giving us good sailig wind.
Our 3rd crew member, the Hydrovane wind rudder does all the steering. Expensive but never complains, doen't eat and works 24/7 ;)

Food wise we are eating well. So far we have made several hot meals. Easy to prepare and such that will leave less dishes to wash.
We have bought German frikadellen (Norw: Karbonader) and Bratwurst both with long expiry dates.
We also rely heavily on Corned Beef and tinned Ham. We also have glasses of conserved boiled potatoes, (long life) that only needs
to be heated in hot water. So we are NOT starving. Huge amounts of Ice tea and drinking water for dry throats. And occational cold beer - but JUST the one!

Have great radio conditions and email is easy using Winlink via a station on the Canary islands.
Conditions to Norway been off/on - but have had contacts every day in the afternoon (1600Z on 14328)
Will also try same frequency at 1045Z.

I am also keeping radio sked with S/Y Fitz Roy with skipper Alexander and his to female sailing companions.
We were both in Mindelo. They left 3 days later than us bound for French Guyana. We meet on marine channels
on 6 or 8 MHz twice a day. Such contacts are great for keeping up the spirit and to compare notes when sailing in similar waters.

Will try upload some pictures once we are within wi-fi range.

07/02/2020

Bye bye Mindelo

Hello, time for an update.
We have had 10 days relaxing in Mindelo - while waiting for our new grandson to be born in Norway.
He was born the 3rd of February and now their little family is back home in our house at Lista.

We set sail from Mindelo the 6th bound for Jacare near Cabadelo in NE Brazil. On the way we will stop
at the island Fernando Noronha (2 days before Cabadelo.)

Weather is good, wind from NE 15 to 25 knots but a bit rolly at times. But we are making acceptable speed averaging 5 kts.
At noon UTC we are west of Fogo island in the Cape Verdes. Sunny and 24C

Great radio conditions and sending/receiving emails easy. Arranged for radio sked with LA on 14326 at 1600UTC. More later.